A Culinary Tour of Wales

Often overshadowed by its neighbors, Welsh cuisine remains one of the United Kingdom's best-kept culinary secrets. Built on simple, hearty ingredients that reflect the country's agricultural heritage and rugged coastline, Welsh food combines traditional recipes passed down through generations with innovative approaches from a new wave of talented chefs. From the mountains of Snowdonia to the coastal towns of Pembrokeshire, let's embark on a gastronomic journey through Wales.

Traditional Welsh Classics

No exploration of Welsh cuisine would be complete without sampling its iconic national dishes.

Welsh Rarebit

Far more than "fancy cheese on toast" as it's sometimes dismissively described, a proper Welsh rarebit is a culinary masterpiece when done right. The dish consists of a savory sauce of Welsh cheddar or Caerphilly cheese mixed with ale, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, and sometimes a dash of cayenne, spread thickly on toasted bread and grilled until bubbling and golden.

For one of the finest examples, visit Madame Fromage in Cardiff's Castle Arcade, where they serve a traditional version alongside creative variations with leeks or bacon.

Cawl

Pronounced "cowl," this hearty, slow-cooked stew is to Wales what bouillabaisse is to Provence—a dish that captures the essence of the region. Traditionally made with lamb, leeks, potatoes, and root vegetables, each family has its variation passed down through generations.

In the market town of Carmarthen, Y Polyn restaurant serves a legendary cawl during winter months, accompanied by crusty bread and Teifi cheese—a perfect remedy for the Welsh weather.

Bara Brith

"Speckled bread" is a fruitcake-like loaf studded with tea-soaked dried fruits and often flavored with mixed spice. A slice spread with salted Welsh butter is the traditional accompaniment to afternoon tea.

For an authentic taste, visit Pettigrew Tea Rooms near Cardiff Castle, where their award-winning bara brith follows a century-old recipe.

Welsh Cakes

These small, round, cake-like biscuits are cooked on a bakestone or griddle and typically contain spices and dried fruits. They're best enjoyed warm from the griddle, perhaps with a light dusting of sugar.

At Cardiff's indoor market, Bakestones makes Welsh cakes to order on traditional cast iron griddles, offering both classic and innovative flavors like chocolate chip or lemon.

Regional Specialties and Local Produce

Seafood from the Welsh Coast

With over 750 miles of coastline, Wales offers exceptional seafood. Pembrokeshire crab, Conwy mussels, and Carmarthen Bay cockles are prized for their quality and flavor.

In the picturesque coastal town of Tenby, The Plantagenet serves memorable seafood platters featuring the morning's catch. Meanwhile, the Hare & Hounds in Aberthin has gained national recognition for its sophisticated treatment of Welsh seafood, including salt-baked sea bass with samphire foraged from the Vale of Glamorgan coastline.

Salt Marsh Lamb

Grazing on salt marshes along the Welsh coast imparts a distinctive flavor to Welsh lamb that's prized by chefs nationwide. The meat has a unique sweetness and tenderness that results from the lambs' diet of samphire, sea lavender, and other salt-tolerant plants.

Experience this delicacy at The Hardwick near Abergavenny, where chef Stephen Terry's simple but precise cooking lets the quality of the ingredients shine.

Welsh Black Beef

This ancient breed of cattle, raised primarily in the uplands of Wales, produces well-marbled beef with exceptional flavor. Traditionally reared using sustainable farming methods, Welsh Black beef represents the country's commitment to quality over quantity.

At The Bull in Beaumaris, Anglesey, chef-patron Andy Tabberner crafts dishes that showcase this heritage breed alongside other local ingredients.

Caerphilly Cheese

Originally developed to provide sustenance for coal miners, this crumbly, mild cheese with a characteristic citrus note has been made in and around the town of Caerphilly since the early 19th century.

Visit Blaenafon Cheddar Company in the World Heritage Site of Blaenavon to sample artisanal Welsh cheeses, including their award-winning variations infused with local ingredients like Penderyn whisky or Brains beer.

Modern Welsh Cuisine

A new generation of Welsh chefs is reinterpreting traditional ingredients and techniques, creating a contemporary Welsh cuisine that honors heritage while embracing innovation.

The Michelin Star Experience

Wales now boasts several Michelin-starred restaurants that showcase Welsh ingredients at their finest. Ynyshir, near Machynlleth in mid-Wales, under the direction of chef Gareth Ward, has earned two Michelin stars for its theatrical tasting menu that incorporates Japanese techniques with the finest Welsh produce.

Meanwhile, Sosban & The Old Butchers on Anglesey offers a surprise tasting menu that changes daily based on what's best from local suppliers.

Hyper-Local Foraging

The abundance of wild food in Wales has inspired a vibrant foraging movement. At Wright's Food Emporium in Carmarthenshire, dishes often feature wild garlic, mushrooms, and herbs gathered from the surrounding countryside.

For an immersive experience, Llys Meddyg in Newport, Pembrokeshire offers foraging expeditions followed by cookery workshops where you can transform your finds into memorable meals.

Welsh Drinks

Welsh Whisky

The revival of Welsh whisky began with Penderyn Distillery, established in 2004 in the Brecon Beacons. Their single malt whiskies have gained international recognition for their unique character, influenced by the pure Welsh water and distinctive copper pot stills.

Visit the distillery for a tour and tasting, or sample their range at The Angel Hotel in Abergavenny, which maintains an impressive Welsh whisky collection.

Craft Beer

Wales is experiencing a craft beer revolution, with microbreweries appearing across the country. Tiny Rebel from Newport has led the charge, becoming Wales's most awarded brewery with bold, flavorful beers that have gained a following far beyond Welsh borders.

Visit their brewery bar in Newport or enjoy their beers at The Potted Pig in Cardiff, which pairs craft beers with Welsh-influenced modern cuisine.

Welsh Cider and Perry

The orchards of Monmouthshire and the Welsh Marches produce exceptional apples and pears for traditional cider and perry. Apple County Cider in Monmouthshire crafts award-winning ciders using traditional methods and heritage varieties.

Experience a tasting at their farm or visit The Clytha Arms near Abergavenny, which stocks an impressive range of local ciders.

Food Festivals and Culinary Events

Wales celebrates its culinary heritage through numerous food festivals throughout the year:

• Abergavenny Food Festival (September) – Often described as the "Glastonbury of food festivals," this event attracts renowned chefs, food writers, and producers from across Britain and beyond.
• Cardigan Bay Seafood Festival (July) – Showcasing the bounty of the Welsh coastline with cooking demonstrations by leading Welsh chefs.
• Conwy Feast (October) – Celebrating the food, art, and culture of North Wales in the dramatic setting of a medieval walled town.

Planning Your Welsh Culinary Tour

To truly experience Welsh cuisine, consider these tips:

• Visit farmers' markets to meet producers and sample local specialties. Cardiff and Swansea host excellent weekly markets, while smaller towns often have monthly events.
• Stay at farmhouse B&Bs where breakfast often features home-produced or locally sourced ingredients.
• Take advantage of Wales's compact size to explore different culinary regions – you can travel from coastal seafood restaurants to upland farm kitchens in a single day.
• Embrace the Welsh seasons – spring lamb, summer seafood, autumn game, and winter comfort foods like cawl all offer authentic tastes of Wales.

Welsh cuisine reflects the country itself – unassuming at first glance but revealing remarkable depth and character upon closer exploration. From the simplicity of Welsh cakes enjoyed beside a coastal path to the sophistication of modern Welsh fine dining, this culinary landscape offers experiences that will surprise and delight adventurous food lovers.